Keeping Your Blonding And Balayage From Brassing Out
Five weeks after coloring your hair blonde, you start to notice something strange: the shade you left the salon with is no more, and now your hair has taken on an undesired yellow, orange or red tone. What gives? Brassy hair, that’s what.
Brassiness refers to the unwanted warm tones that show up in colored hair. It typically happens in dark hair that gets dyed platinum or blonde, but it can also occur in hair that’s been highlighted or in hair that’s been lightened to brown.
To understand why this occurs, you’ll need to understand what’s happening during the whole hair lightening process. To lift dark hair, bleaching with a mix of ammonia and peroxide is usually a necessary part of the equation. When hair is bleached, melanin, a dark brown to black pigment, gets diluted in a process known as oxidation.
After lightening, the next step is usually to apply your haircolor, which deposits artificial pigment onto your locks while removing some of your natural color.
Brassy haircolor comes about because lightening doesn’t necesarily get rid of all the underlying pigment in your hair, giving the warm tones an opportunity to reveal themselves. For lightened blonde hair, the underlying pigment is yellow, and for lightened brown to black hair, the underlying pigments are orange to red. When the brassiness starts creeping up, think of it as your natural hair telling you, “Hey, remember us?”
When brassiness occurs, that also means that among the red, yellow and blue color molecules your hair dye contains, the blue ones have made a faster departure, leaving—you guessed it—just the warm tones. Since the blue color molecules are smaller, they’re broken down easily and fade quicker with every wash. Unfair.
Fortunately, you have several options when it comes dealing with brassy hair, in terms of both preventing it and fixing it after it happens.
HEAD TO THE SALON AND GET A Shine bomb with a Bond Building Treatment FOR BRASSY HAIR
Shine Bombs provide a translucent deposit of haircolor that lasts 4-6 week. It isn’t just great for altering your haircolor without the commitment. It can be a great brassy hair, blonde boosting fix, too. Also known as demi-permanent color, glaze or toning, regularly scheduled shine bomb glosses correct the unwanted yellow, orange or even red tones lingering on your hair since it contains just enough pigment to improve your haircolor. Plus, the service will enhance the shine levels of your strands in the process, so you’ll be doing your hair multiple favors in just one sitting.
Our shine bomb service, which can be used as a toning gloss for brassy hair, does all of the above and raises the hair cuticle, giving hair volume and texture and improving manageability in the process. Plus, the toning gloss service can take as little as 20 minutes.
Just remember that a hair gloss yields only temporary results. The good news is you won’t have to deal with that obvious growing out period situation with your roots like you might have to deal with if you decide to color your hair all over again.
How Often Should You Visit The Salon?
Services at 4 weeks: Gray Coverage coloring Or shoulder length to pixie haircuts
Services at 5 weeks: Brass Busting, Blonde Boosting Shine Bombs (great for in between balayage visits)
Root Boost Base Breaker if you are a natural level medium brown and get highlights
Services at 7 weeks: Ideal time between foil services. Unless you receive a root boost base break at 5 weeks, highlights will have almost 1.5" of regrowth by now
Services at 9 weeks: This is the ideal time between Balayage/Shadow Rooting services. At 9 weeks, a balayage requires less maintenance than it would at 12 weeks and you'll typically need a surface refresh of balayage, a shine bomb, treatment and haircut. At this point, the line of demarcation of the balayage has grown down 2 inches. Wait any more than that, it starts to look like an ombre.
Haircut visits are ideal at 7 weeks. Going over 9 weeks for a haircut is when hair significantly looses its shape, becomes uneven and ends split.